Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Free Wristlet Crochet Pattern, Simply Single Crochet Wrister Pattern


This is the first of three in a series of single crochet / pattern reading tutorials, each series will demonstrate the basic single crochet, and show you that there's a whole lot you can do with this one simple stitch to create great projects.

The first in this series is:

Simply Single Crochet Wristlets

The pattern is written for 3 sizes:

Adult-Large (8.5 inch wrist circumference x 10 inch length)

Adult-Small (7.5 inch wrist circumference x 9 inch length)

Child (6.5 inch wrist circumference by 8 inch length)


You can read this pattern is a few different ways, scroll through this post and follow the pattern instructions as you go, this way you can see photos of each section. If you want the pattern reading and single crochet tutorial of this pattern, each section of the wristlets have a slide show included that will take you step-by-step through the process of creating the project and reading the pattern (The adult-small wristlets are being demonstrated in the slide show, you can still follow this to create the other two sizes). Or if you want to skip the whole illustration process, just scroll down to the bottom of the post, where I've downloaded a non-illustrated written PDF file of the pattern that you can download or print out.

This pattern will demonstrate:
  • how to make a basic single crochet in a starting chain, and in another single crochet.
  • how to test gauge
  • how to work in rows, rounds, and continuous rnds,
  • how to single crochet in front loop only and in back loop only.
  • how to switch to a new color 
  • how to single crochet in ends of rows
  • and how to single crochet 2 together (or single crochet decrease)
Let's take a look at the materials needed:
  • You will need a chunky weight (#5 weight) yarn (I used Bernat Roving -wool/acrylic blend- chunky weight yarn. I needed 1 ball for color A, and small amounts of colors B and C; the colors I used were #100/Rice Paper, #044/Dark Grey, and #071/Plum)
  • Crochet hook I/9 - 5.50 mm or size required to obtain gauge (this will be demonstrated in just a little bit)
  • Stitch marker (for marking continuous rnds): I just use an alternate color of yarn for this.
  • Yarn needle (for working in ends and sewing on flower)
Gauge: It is important to check your gauge to get accurate sizing.
5 single crochet x 6 single crochet rows will measures 2 inches square.

Here is the gauge swatch showing 6 rows of 5 sc each.
Click through the slide show for a tutorial on making a single crochet
in chains and rows; as well as a step by step guide to making the gauge swatch.






What happens if my gauge swatch does not measure 2 inches square:

There are two ways that you can get your swatch to get a little closer to the correct measurement.

1) Make your stitches a little tighter or a little looser. This is not the ideal, especially if you are a beginner, since you will have to make sure that you use that same tension throughout the entire project, and if it's not your usual/comfortable way to crochet it may be difficult to keep it even.

  • If your gauge measures larger than 2 inches, you can crochet a little tighter and retest your gauge.
  • If your gauge measures less than 2 inches, you can crochet a little looser and retest your gauge.
2) Change your hook size. This is the more optimal way to get the correct gauge.
  • If your gauge measures too small, you will need to recheck your gauge using a larger size hook. I typically increase my hook size by one size (example: this pattern calls for a 5.50mm hook, if my gauge would measure too small I would try it again with a 6.25mm hook). I just keep increasing my hook size until I get as close as I can to the correct gauge measurement.
  • If your gauge measures too large, you will need to recheck your gauge using a smaller size hook, keep gradually decreasing the size of your hook until you get as close as you can to the gauge measurement.

Okay, we've covered the materials needed to create your wristers and the gauge, we're not quite ready to move onto the pattern yet, we need to take a look at a few more things that are included in some patterns.

STITCHES USED / ABBREVIATIONS:
*indicates that a illustration of this stitch is provided.
Chain = ch
Slip stitch = sl st
*Single Crochet = sc
*Single Crochet 2 Together = sc2tog (this is also known as sc dec in some patterns)
*Back Loop Only = blo
*Front Loop Only = flo
Color A = CA
Color B = CB
Color C = CC
Hook = hk
Round(s) = rnd(s)
Stitch(es) = st(s)

Some patterns will give you a list of stitches and abbreviations used in the pattern; some will also indicate if there is an illustration of that stitch provided. This is handy to have as a reference, if at any point in the pattern you are unsure of what an abbreviated instruction means you can refer back to this list (for example, if the pattern says "With CC, ch 2" - and you go "What?!?" you can check back to the list and see that it means "With Color C, chain 2".

It's also important, when buying a pattern, to check this information first. No one wants to spend the money on a pattern to discover that it includes stitches that you don't know how to make.

PATTERN NOTES:

The next thing we will look at is the Pattern Notes. These are often given just prior to the Pattern Instructions, it is very helpful to take a look at these before you begin as they will give you any extra details needed to complete your project:


  • Pay attention to the different count indicated for specific sizing. The pattern is written for Child (Adult-Small, Adult-Large) are written in brackets and indicated by differing colors.
A few notes to keep in mind concerning the above pattern note. I have included these instructions in with my pattern notes, some patterns will have this listed elsewhere, but it's important to pay attention and find this information if your pattern is written for multiple sizes.

Also note that any instructions that don't indicate a different stitch count with brackets or color change, follow the one stitch count listed for all pattern sizes.

In my patterns, I will indicate multiple stitch counts with brackets and by using different colors; not all patterns do this, then you will need to pay attention to the stitch count placement in relations to the brackets, here is an example:
My hand cuff pattern instructions begin like this:

With Color A, ch 4 (6, 8).

If you are creating the child size wristlets, you would look for the stitch count
that is teal or just prior to the brackets. For child size, chain 4.

If you are creating the adult-small wristlets, you would look for the stitch count
indicated with green or the first placement inside the brackets. For adult-small, chain 6.

If you are creating adult-large wristlets, you would look for the purple stitch count
or the second placement inside the brackets. For adult-large, chain 6.

  • When a join is indicated, join with slip stitch.
This means all joining is done with a slip stitch, the reason to add this in pattern notes is to save a little paper space in the pattern instructions. The instructions can just say, "join in 1st sc" as opposed to "join with sl st in first sc". 


Sometimes there will be other pattern instructions depending on the pattern. Just remember it's always a good idea to read these prior to starting the pattern.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Okay, the time has finally come where we can begin creating our wristlets (don't forget to make 2).

You can try your hand at following the basic instructions below, if you get to a part that you might need more help with you can check out the slideshow below each section of pattern:

HAND CUFF:

With CA, ch 4 (6, 8)

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each of next 2 (4, 6) chs, turn.

Row 2: Working in flo, ch 1, sc in each of next 3 (5, 7) sc, turn.

Row 3: (Right side): Working in blo, ch 1, sc in each of next 3 (5, 7) sc, turn.

[Consecutively repeat rows 2 and 3] 7 (8, 9) times.

You will have a total of 17 (19, 21) rows. Do not fasten off.

With wrong side facing, fold hand cuff so that the sc's on last row worked are lined up with beginning ch; insert hook into flo of next sc and corresponding beginning ch, make a sl st. Continue in this manner to create 1 (3, 5) more sl st's.  Insert hook into flo of last sc and corresponding beg ch, drop CA, pick up CB and pull through to create your last sl st. Fasten off CA only.

Here is the slideshow to walk you step-by-step through the process of making the Hand Cuff: (for adult-small size, you can still follow these steps but adjust according to stitch and row counts for the other two sizes)




Now that the cuff is complete we can continue with the Thumb Opening:

Turn cuff right-side-out, with CB at the top of the cuff, you will be working around end of rows on cuff.

Row 1: Ch 1, work 17 (19, 21) sc evenly around hand cuff, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 15 (17, 19) sc, 2 sc in next sc, turn. [19 (21, 23) sc]

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of next 19 (21, 23) sc, turn.

[Repeat row 3] 3 (4, 6) times. At the end of last repeat, do not turn, join to first sc.

The Thumb Opening is complete (do not fasten off). Here is the slide show to walk you step-by-step through the above rows.




Once the Thumb Opening is complete, it is time to move on to working the wrist, continuing with CB,
The Wrist will be worked in continuous rnds until otherwise indicated. All rounds will be worked with right side of wristlet facing.  Do not join at the end of each rnd; place a stitch marker in the last stitch of the rnd, moving the marker up to the last stitch as each rnd is completed.

The first rnd only will start with a ch 1 to bring the hook up to sc height, all the following rnds will not begin with a chain 1 unless indicated in the pattern instructions.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, sc in each of next 18 (20, 22) sc. (Place stitch marker)

Rnd 2: Sc2tog, sc in each of next 15 (17, 19) sc, sc2tog. [17 (19, 21) sc]

Rnd 3: Sc in each of next 17 (19, 21) sc.

Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in each of next 13 (15, 17) sc, sc2tog. [15 (17, 19) sc]

Rnd 5: Sc in each of next 15 (17, 19) sc.

Rnd 6: Sc in next sc [2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 6 (7, 8) sc] twice. [17 (19, 21) sc]

Rnd 7: Sc in each of next 17 (19, 21) sc.

Rnd 8: Sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 7 (8, 9) sc] twice. [19 (21, 23) sc]

Rnd 9: Sc in each of next 19 (21, 23) sc.

[Repeat rnd 9] 1 (3, 5) times. On the last rnd worked, join in next sc.

Next Rnd: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in each of next 18 (20, 22) sc. To join rnd, insert hk in first sc, drop CB, join CA and pull through sc and loop on hook to form sl st. Fasten off CB ONLY. CA is joined to work Wrist Finishing, which will be presented after the slide show illustrations of Wrist.




Wrist Finishing: 

You should still have CA on your hook from the last rnd worked on the wrist portion of the pattern.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and in each of next 18 (20, 22) sc, join to first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and in each of next 18 (20, 22) sc, join to first sc changing to CC on last pull through. Fasten off CA.

Rnd 3: With CC, ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, sc in each of next 18 (20, 22) sc, join to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Thumb Opening Finishing:

Join CA in hand cuff in the space between between thumb opening row 1's 1st and last sc's.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, working around end of rows on thumb opening, sc 11 (15, 19) sc evenly around, join to 1st sc changing to CC on last pull through. Fasten off CA only.

Rnd 2: With CC, ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, sc in each of next 10 (14, 18) sc, join to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hand Cuff Finishing: 

Join CC around end of any row on open end of hand cuff. Ch 1, work 17 (19, 21) sc evenly around hand cuff, join to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Your wristlet is now complete, before we move on to the Pattern Instructions for creating the flowers, go back to the beginning and make your second wristlet.



Okay, time to start the flowers. You can choose which flower you would like to make or have some fun with it and mix it up or cluster all three together. The flowers are made separately, and then sewn onto the desired spot on the wristlets.

Crazy Daisy


Lazy Daisy

Loopy Daisy

CRAZY DAISY

With CC, ch 2

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hk.

Rnd 2: Working in flo, [sl st in next sc, (ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hk)] 6 times, join in unused 1st ch from beginning ch.

Rnd 3: Rnd 3 is worked behind rnd 2 petals, work in unused back loops of rnd 1 sc's: [sl st in next sc, (ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hk) 3 times, working back toward flower center sc in each of next 3 ch's made within the ( )] 6 times, join in 1st sl st of first petal. 

Fasten off, leave a long enough tail to sew flower to wristlet.




LAZY DAISY

With CC, ch 2

Rnd 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hk.

Rnd 2: Working in flo, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in each of next 6 sc.

Rnd 3: This rnd is worked behind rnd 2's petals, work in unused back loops of rnd 1 sc's: (sl st, ch 5, sl st) in each unused back loop of rnd 1's sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew flower to wristlet.


LOOPY DAISY

The Loopy Daisy is made with the Loop Stitch, if you are unsure of how to create one of these stitches, click through the slideshow tutorial below the pattern instructions.

With CC, ch 2

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hk, join in blo of 1st sc made.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in same blo as joining create 2 Loop Stitches, work 2 Loop Stitches in blo of each of next 5 sc, join to the single crochet part of the 1st Loop Stitch made.

Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew flower to wristlet. Note: the "loops" will be on the opposite side of row worked, flip flower over so that the loops are the part showing when attached to wristet.




Your Simply Single Crochet Wristlets are now complete ... enjoy!!!!

You can download or print the pattern below by accessing the menu icon below the PDF below, since this is a free pattern you can print out as many copies as you'd like, share them with friends, etc. However, the pattern design belongs solely to EveryDayWomanCrochet designs by Sheri K. Do not reprint or sell the pattern in any form. However, the projects you create from the patterns are completely yours to do what you would like with. Any wristlets you create feel free to keep, give away, and even sell. I would appreciate (if you are selling your item) a mention as the designer, but it is not necessary.






Click here to check out my free pattern / chain stitch tutorial to
make this "Just a Chain Away Slouchy Hat"

If you liked the wristlets, and want a hat to match; you can purchase a matching hat pattern using all the same stitches and techniques you just learned to make the wristlets. Just click the photo below to view slide show photos of the Simply Single Crochet Hat as well as to be taken to the pattern ordering page:




For any comments, questions or concerns about any of my patterns you can contact me at 
everydaywomancrochet@outlook.com or everydaywomancrochet@gmail.com.

Check back on March 11, 2015 for the second in my single crochet tutorial when we make a project using the long sc as well as work on changing colors when single crocheting.


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